I like to research things just enough to feel like I have a handle on it and then I dive in and usually wing it with confidence that whatever I am doing will work out. Generally, I need to be able to do something well enough. I try to embrace mistakes and nothing I ever make or do will be perfect, because perfect is boring and who is ever going to notice? The person who does notice is also boring. I said it.
But these pants. I am spending a lot of time and energy on these pants. I am determined to make pants that fit and are flattering and comfortable and that I will actually wear. Somehow in the course of my internet research, I came across a blog that mentioned Fake Camel Toe which linked to a site with information on how to fix FCT. I gasped and tried on my practice pantaloons. I had FCT! the loose, bagging fabric at the front crotch gave the illusion on camel toe. Now that I had seen it, I couldn’t unsee it. Since I was creating a new pattern template to incorporate the backside adjustment, I figured I might as well adjust the front too. Armed with a ruler and a vague sense that it should work, I trimmed the front crotch seam as instructed by the Fashion Incubator post and raise the backside as instructed by 100 acts of sewing. I also decided to add pockets based on Sew Over It’s instructions. Here’s what I learned: eyeballing pocket placement is never a good idea.
At this point, I was honestly starting to loose track of all the changes I had made to the pattern. There were so many pieces of tissue paper lying around I was getting confused. Here’s what I did:
- raised the waist 2 inches
- added a backside adjustment
- trimmed the front crotch seam to reduce the FCT
- lengthened the leg
- tapered the leg
- added pockets
The second pair of pantaloons were good. The pockets are ridiculous and add way too much bulk to my thighs but overall the pants were good. Emboldened, I cut my black linen. And just over an hour later, I had a fantastic pair of linen pants. I am happy.
#summerofbasics #owynpants #frankenpants
I had some time on the weekend to make a muslin pair of Owyn pants. My mom, from whom I inherited my crafty and hoarding tendencies, dug into her stash and gave me some red quilting cotton–fabric that she’s likely had for 30 years. Some other things I’ve inherited from my mom are a warped sense of my actual size and thick thighs. So the muslin was essential to get a realistic idea of fit before cutting into my linen.
I’ve been reading everything I can find by women who have made the pants and applied what I’d learned to my traced pattern. I raised the waist by two inches, lengthen the leg by an inch (I’m 5’4″ and not really into cropped pants), and tapered the leg two sizes. It was at this point that my mom arrived, looked at my traced patterned, and pronounced it too big. We measured from the crotch to the hip on the pattern and then on me and I agreed to go down one size. I re-traced the pattern and tapered the leg to the smallest size.
Excuse the lack of ironing, I was anxious to try them on and then didn’t take them off until it was time for bed. I used a 1.5 inch elastic because that’s what I had and it makes the waist extremely comfortable and feels less like the elastic will twist.
My initial feel was that they were too small in the hips and I am waffling on that (see first paragraph) plus I was distracted by how short they are in the back. Squatting to pull clothes out of the dryer revealed quite a lot of my backside. Sitting down would pose similar problems. I found a backside adjustment tutorial on 100 acts of sewing so I will give that a go next using the leftover red fabric. I may add a half inch to the hips. And then hopefully I’ll be ready to make my linen pants.
Two other things I read about that I may try: add interfacing to stabilize the front and adjusting the front crotch to reduce bagging. Both need some research.
Initial pattern impression: the pattern is simple to make and the pants are comfortable. I’m putting in extra work to adjust the fit because I’m trying to add items to my wardrobe that fit me and that I will actually wear. These are my first pair of pants so maybe all pants will require the same level of tweaking to achieve fit.
Since getting serious about sewing late last year, I’ve been making t-shirts and tank tops to fill some wardrobe gaps and replace worn out ready to wear (RTW) items in my closet. I’m inspired by Karen Templer, of Fringe Association, and her approach to making; I want to make items that I’ll actually wear, that fit my lifestyle and aesthetic, and I want to make items thoughtfully. When Karen introduced the Summer of Basics it was the perfect opportunity to asses what else I needed and how I could push myself to try new garments.
I plan to make Lotta Jansdotter‘s Owyn Pants from Everyday Style in black linen.
Fen Dress by Fancy Tiger Crafts, probably in Chambray.
Undecided at the moment but woven and with short sleeves. My mom gave me a stack of fabric from her stash that provide some possibilities. There’s some cream silk noil that I want to dye indigo and a creamy linen. I’ll see how the dying goes before I make a firm decision on the top.
First up: Owyn!
Meg and I have been obsessively sewing for about six months and our BBM chat was getting a bit out of hand as we filled each other in on our latest plans or finished garment. We decided we needed a blog to keep track of everything. Riveting stuff!